PPSL 2023: Teurimong Geunaseh, Banda Aceh

Before diving into my role as a civil servant lecturer for nearly five years, the idea of pursuing a doctoral degree, especially abroad, never crossed my mind. However, after three years of this program running, I found myself drawn to apply for the Advanced Study Preparation Program for Abroad (PPSL). It's a non-degree scholarship initiative by the Ministry of Religion, designed to help folks like me prepare for the IELTS test, a crucial step for studying abroad. While the program mainly focuses on IELTS prep, covering over 50% of the material, it also provides valuable guidance on crafting research proposals and securing scholarships at international universities.

Our training program, along with fourteen other colleges, was held in Banda Aceh, where thirteen participants from various work units across Indonesia gathered. Most of us were lecturers. I'm incredibly thankful for the opportunities this experience brought me. Spending three months in Banda Aceh gave me invaluable experiences and lessons I never expected. I forged strong connections with supportive peers, learned from experienced tutors, and fell in love with the unique atmosphere of Banda Aceh, making it a one-of-a-kind experience.

When I found out that my training would be in Banda Aceh, I didn't expect much. The Province of Aceh has a history of conflict spanning decades, and the devastating 2004 tsunami is still fresh in many minds. However, I was pleasantly surprised by the beauty of the area, and none of my worries came true. Aceh turned out to be incredibly safe and peaceful; even arranging a late-night taxi ride online didn't worry us women. The natural scenery in Aceh is stunning, providing new experiences around every corner. The only downside is the lack of entertainment venues like malls, but that didn't bother me much since I have plenty of entertainment options back home in Medan.

The security, comfort, and beauty of Banda Aceh were even better with my new friends around. At first, getting used to each other was tough because we all had our own cultural backgrounds and habits. Our accents, local languages, and even how we spoke Indonesian were all different, which made things challenging. But after living together for almost three months and spending almost every moment together, we learned to put aside our differences and egos. We adapted and grew closer as a group over time. And our most intimate moments were when the time for us to return to our respective regions was getting closer.

From Monday to Friday, we were fully immersed in intense studying from morning until evening, leaving us exhausted by the end of the day, with just enough energy to rest. However, when the weekend rolled around, my friend Lulu from Malang and I made sure to seize the opportunity to explore Banda Aceh to the fullest.

Historical Sites

The Baiturrahman Grand Mosque stands as a powerful symbol of Banda Aceh's resilience, especially in the face of the devastating tsunami. Despite the surrounding destruction caused by the tsunami, the mosque stood tall, providing shelter for those seeking refuge. But it's not the only reminder of the tsunami's impact. The Rahmatullah Mosque, situated closest to Lampuuk beach, the epicenter of the tsunami, also endured. Visitors to this mosque can see several pillars that collapsed during the tsunami, left intact as a poignant reminder of the lives lost and the community's strength.

Baiturrahman Grand Mosque

Rahmatullah Mosque

While we were in Banda Aceh, we got to check out a few historical buildings. One standout was the Museum of Aceh, packed with info about the region's past. One room caught our eye, focusing on the spice trade in Aceh and how the colonial powers tried to take control of it. What's cool is that the room is shaped like a ship, showing how important maritime trade was back then.

Next on our agenda was the Tsunami Museum, which is all about remembering the tragic 2004 tsunami that hit Aceh. One part of the museum that really hit home was a short film showing what happened during the tsunami. We learned something really surprising from this film: there was a village super close to where the tsunami hit, but it had the fewest casualties. Turns out, they had a traditional song passed down through generations, warning them to get to higher ground if the sea looked weird. This quick thinking saved a lot of lives, unlike in other areas where people might not have recognized the signs of a tsunami until it was too late.

We also checked out the PLTD Apung (Floating Diesel Power Plant) monument, which was another stark reminder of the tsunami's power. It's pretty mind-blowing to think about, but the tsunami was so strong that it carried this massive 63-meter-long, 2,600-ton ship all the way into residential areas.

The Beaches 

Banda Aceh offers breathtaking coastal scenery. While my friends from Java Island might find it pretty normal, since they're used to even more stunning views, for me, coming from a place having beaches with murky water, seeing clear sea water and coral underneath was absolutely amazing. I was even amazed by the many crab-filled holes in the sand. And, of course, we had to make sure to visit Weh Island, also known as Sabang.

• Mongmong Beach

During our stay in Banda Aceh, we often visited different beaches, and Lampuuk Beach was a must-see because it's where the 2004 Tsunami started. In our first week, my five female friends and I checked out Lampuuk. But it was actually Mongmong Beach that kicked off our group's beach explorations, as both males and females joined in for our first outing together. That day set the stage for lots more beach adventures.

• Sabang, Weh Island

Our visit to Weh Island, also known as Sabang, was the highlight of our beach adventures. None of us had been there before, so the nine of us decided to get help from a travel agent. We spent three days and two nights exploring the island's beautiful beaches. One unforgettable experience was dolphin watching. We set out early in the morning to see dolphins in their natural habitat. After that amazing encounter, we went snorkeling. Speaking for myself, it was my first time snorkeling, and it was definitely a memorable first on our trip.

• Alue Naga Beach

Our last beach visit in Banda Aceh was Alue Naga Beach before we headed home. Lulu and I decided to check it out in the morning, so we booked a taxi ride online. Interestingly, it didn't seem like a popular tourist spot, and our driver was a bit unsure about dropping us off, expressing some safety concerns. But we trusted Google's directions and walked confidently towards the beach. While it wasn't the most extraordinary beach, it was peaceful along the long stretch of sand. Visiting in the morning meant we got to enjoy clean sand and clear water. As soon as I stepped onto the sand, the familiar smell of the sea washed over me, bringing a sense of happiness.

Food and Beverage 

The Coffee

I'm no coffee expert, but I can attest that coffee plays an integral role in Acehnese culture. Everywhere you turn in Banda Aceh, there are coffee shops, ranging from cozy nooks to bustling establishments, frequented by coffee enthusiasts day and night. Among them, the most renowned—known as sanger coffee—holds a special place. Legend has it that "sanger" stands for "sama-sama ngerti," or "we understand each other," reflecting the empathy of coffee shop owners toward students on a budget. Hence, sanger coffee is served in petite glasses, making it both pocket-friendly and enjoyable for all.

I really love strongly spiced food, so adjusting to the flavorful cuisine of Banda Aceh, which is known for its bold spices, was easy for me. I feel for my friends from different cities in Java Island who have to hunt for Javanese dishes to satisfy their taste buds. When it comes to food, exploring culinary delights is our weekend hobby, especially enjoying authentic Acehnese dishes like Mie Aceh, made by locals in their hometown. It's a whole new experience compared to what we're used to back home, even though it's cooked by Acehnese.

Mie Aceh; Acehnese's scpecialty noodle

Aceh has a treasure trove of culinary delights that stole our hearts. One standout is Sate Matang. "Matang" doesn't just mean 'cooked' in Indonesian—it's the name of a village in Aceh. So, Matang satay originates from this village. Beef satay served with a hearty beef leg bone broth, savory peanut sauce, and a side of warm rice, it's a dish bursting with flavor. Despite indulging in it numerous times, its deliciousness never gets old.

Another must-try is Ayam Tangkap, literally translated as "caught chicken." It's a simple yet flavorful dish featuring kampong (free-range) chicken fried with authentic Acehnese spices, generously garnished with fragrant curry leaves. Its comforting taste is unmatched, offering a unique flavor profile unlike any other fried chicken. The name "Ayam tangkap or caught chicken" originates from the traditional practice across Indonesia of manually catching chickens before preparing them for consumption. When visiting a typical Acehnese restaurant, be sure to pair it with the tantalizing beulangong sauce, fried beef, and a selection of mouthwatering Acehnese chili sauces for a truly delightful dining experience.

This pecal rice dish was a real lifesaver for us during our stay in Banda Aceh. It had everything we needed in one bowl: rice, veggies, eggs, and tasty condiments like sauce and crackers. We must have ordered it a ton of times, and it kinda became a symbol of our strength and ability to cope while being away from home.

When I visited Sabang, I got to taste octopus satay for the first time, and it was really good! I was pleasantly surprised by how tasty octopus can be. Even though it was a bit more expensive than other satay dishes, I ended up ordering it two nights in a row because I knew I wouldn't find it back home. And let me tell you, I didn't regret it one bit! Oh, I shouldn't forget that my first taste of octopus satay was a birthday treat from a friend of mine.

The pizza in Banda Aceh totally blew my mind when it comes to what makes a great pizza. I'm not exactly sure about the traditional pizza-making process, or what exact kind of pizza I had there that's different from what I get in Medan. But let me tell you, the thin, fire-grilled pizza I had was unlike any fusion pizza I've ever tasted. It was just so delicious!

During my stay in Banda Aceh, I came across an interesting tradition: as Maghrib prayer time nears, all trading activities stop. If we're eating out before Maghrib, we're advised to finish our meal at our own pace. But no new orders are taken, and new customers aren't allowed in until after Maghrib. It's a way for Aceh to enforce Islamic Sharia law within its territory, showing its autonomy.

Taking part in this program made me realize how valuable it is to pursue further education abroad, something I hadn't thought about before. I've found a second family among the friends I live with in what we jokingly call our dorm. The program has given me priceless experiences, helpful feedback, and amazing support, and I'm really grateful for all of it.

Teurimong Geunaseh, Banda Aceh ❤️